I am 25 years old, and I have never encountered any problems with the skin. So, frankly, I somehow did not really thought about the issue special care for her. But recently I learned that prosperity is on the average estimate does not last long – just 25 years, and then begins the process of aging, and in the preservation of beauty rely on natural premise is no longer necessary. Layers of the skin, located on the surface, becoming thinner and protect the inner layers worse. Therefore, the skin is dried, reduced the content of good fats, blood circulation slows down. Here, the first assistant to women, of course, become creams. Ever since they invented, little has changed. The basis of any cream always include water and fats of vegetable or animal origin. When last fall on the skin, they form a waterproof film that does not evaporate moisture from the surface. And for the best effect in the creams are added biologically active substances. Such a composition is the basis of any cream.
However, the right choice by coming into a modern store, not so easy, because the number of creams, neatly arranged on tiered shelves, it seems truly endless. So I asked the opinion of experts, and what I want to share with readers.
Cream for face and skin type
So you need to know first? This type of skin. Always worth it to pick the cream for your skin type (purpose cream is always indicated on the package).
Apparently, the skin on my face belongs to the latter type. As advised to choose a face cream holders of this type of skin?
It is believed that the combination skin requires more complex care, although to date, manufacturers of creams easily cope with this task.
For the highest quality care for the mixed skin you can use different creams for different skin types. For example, on the forehead, chin, nose and around the nasal area to put the cream for oily skin, but on the cheeks and neck – for normal or dry. But you can choose and special creams for combination skin. In their structure optimally balanced and moisturisers and podsushivayuschee agents.
Due to a slight moisturizing ingredients podsushivayuschee agents (which is always a technical alcohols) may not be present.
Specialists are also advised to pay attention to the contents of calcium and zinc in their composition, since they not only have anti-inflammatory effects, but also regulates fat metabolism. There are synthetic substances that address the same problem, for example, nylon-12. Well, if the humidifier uses a natural oil caprylic / capric triglyceride, extracted from the coconut. He did not perezhirivaet skin like other oils, but it moisturizes and keeps the moisture inside.
Such components may include in the cream for oily skin, but here it is desirable to choose a light moisturizer on the gel base. Such creams usually have a liquid consistency, so quickly absorbed. Often added fine particles of starch, such as corn, which have a matte effect by absorbing excess sebum. In addition, in creams for oily skin should be present matter, soothing the skin and reduce the allocation of fat. These substances include herbal extracts (calendula, aloe, yarrow), vitamins A and E, zinc and sulfur, allatonin (allatonin), bisabolol (bisabolol) – anti-inflammatory substances released from the essential oils of chamomile and lavender. Positive effect on oily skin has canola oil, strengthens the protection and aligns the water-oil balance. I draw the attention of readers that in creams for oily skin must be present antiseptics (for example, phenoxyethanol), because on the surface of oily skin is actively multiplying bacteria that causes acne and irritations. In this case, creams containing glycerin (glycerin), can not be used for this skin type, as it can clog pores, which leads to clogging and the accumulation of fat in them.
When you clean the oily skin is not worth it overdry using harsh alcohol-based, as in creams of this type are also included podsushivayuschee agents. Most often, this technical alcohols such as denatured alcohol (alcohol denat). The result of improper care may become thick and scaly skin at the same time.
But for dry skin, Glycerin, on the contrary is shown, since it removes the feeling of tightness and makes it velvety. In addition, usually there are many such creams emollients.
Emollients – special fats and fatty substances that penetrate the upper layers of the skin, soften it and smooth. Emollients may be synthetic or natural. To include synthetic silicones (the substance with the end-meticone,-siloxane), cetyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol) and other silicones, as well as mineral (paraffiunum liquidum) and silicone oil. Natural Emollients – a variety of vegetable oils (in the name of the substance is present the word «oil»), waxes (eg beeswax (cera alba), soybean oil, soybean or substance of the “«-wax ») and vegetable glycerin (for example, the same soy glycerin «-glycine hispida»). Synthetic silicones lose natural that there are only superficially and temporarily, while the natural impact on living cells from the inside.
One of the best natural emollients Squalane is (squalane), which also has high antioxidant properties. He is well softens the skin, has a healing effect.
Well, if the composition is hyaluron (you can also find the name of hyaluronic acid). This substance in the skin, which retains moisture. Of course, that with age the number of hyaluron in the skin decreases, so the cream of this substance must begin to use since 25 years. In addition, this substance has a positive effect not only on dry skin, but also on the skin of normal type, sensitive and easily irritated.
Normal skin – is ideal. But to keep it in such a condition requires care. Normal skin requires, above all, protection and lightweight moisturizing. So do not use fat and nourishing creams, as they may damage the normal water and fat metabolism. Creams for normal skin, usually have a liquid consistency and contain moisturizing agents. The most common – is propylene glycol (propylene glycol). It is felt that this substance may have a negative impact on the health of the skin, but find makeup without it is very difficult. So if it scares you, you can choose the creams, which are composed of propylene glycol is the most distant position from the beginning of the list of ingredients. To little to reassure readers, I note that in the quantities that use creams, it is unlikely that substance can be harmful. Another good moisturizing ingredient is sorbitol. Can also be used mineral oils, algae extracts (algae extract), etc. And to protect the skin added UV filters and protective ingredients (aloe, chamomile, etc.).
A special group can be distinguished cream for sensitive or allergy-prone skin. To this category might include all of the above types of skin from oily to dry. Therefore, the packaging indicated that the cream is meant, for example, for combination sensitive skin. The content of these creams reduced the number of different components to minimize the irritating effects on the skin, they do not have a bright flavor and color. The components are also chosen in view of the sensitivity of the skin. For example, as organic emollients and moisturizing ingredients to be used pentylene glycol instead of the most common propylene glycol, because it causes less irritation to the skin. As the oil component the use of substances such octyldodecanol and other fatty alcohols.
Allergens are strong and some emulsifying agents (substances that make immiscible oil and water into a homogeneous emulsion). In particular, people with allergies should avoid such an emulsifier as triethanolamine, which most often causes a reaction.
Also strong allergens are preservatives (substances with the end of «-paraben»). The closer they are in part located to the top, so their content is higher. Their concentration can also be determined by shelf-life (longer than they are, the more preservatives) and packaging (in creams, packed in tubes preservatives unambiguously lower than in cans).
As already mentioned, to improve the effect of the cream in its composition is introduced various additives.
In many creams you can find popular, but controversial in its impact fruit acids. Good they are that clean the horny layer of skin from dead cells and gives skin a beautiful appearance. However, overdoses of these acids can cause severe chemical burns. Therefore, the packaging must indicate their percentage, which shall not exceed 10%. These include citric acid, tartaric and grapes, as well as alpha-hydroxide acid or AHA.
Often in the cream is added antioxidants: vitamin E or Tocopherol acetate (tocopherol acetate), vitamin A and C, selenium, etc. They protect skin cells from damage by free radicals and slow the aging process.
Enzymes. This new and promising direction in cosmetology. They are similar to human cells and stimulate the work of skin cells, which is especially effective after 30 years. The most well-known enzyme in cosmetology – is coenzyme Q10. There are others: lidazy, collagenase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), gialurnidaza.
Day and Night Cream
Additionally, face creams for its intended purpose are divided into day and night. The day cream has a light texture, and consist of about 70% water. In the daytime creams must be present soothing and relieving irritation ingredients: allantoin, panthenol, extracts of calendula, cucumber green tea, lavender, azulin, beta-glucan, etc. Well, if they have, and UV protection (SPF), because sun exposure ages skin.
Night creams are usually more saturated fat and active substances (collagen, fat-soluble vitamins, etc.). They restore the skin while you sleep, that is when it is most susceptible to nutrient elements.
The day cream is necessary to use all, because he not only cares for the skin, but also significantly reduces the aggressiveness of the environment. But a night cream is time to begin to use after 30-35 years, when weakening the skin becomes necessary to more active intervention and rehabilitation. Before that age, in most cases (you should focus on the skin) can go to subside just a clean skin or use a light moisturizer.
Read the label
Of course, I realize that no matter how detailed I have painted the properties of various components of the creams, they still can not remember. Therefore, readers suggest some practice in understanding the properties of cream, looking at its composition. It should be noted that most of the ingredients found in almost all creams and they differ, as a rule, only a few substances.
For example, take the ingredient list of age of cream-known international brands (price is around 500 rubles)..
Before we begin analysis of the recall, that the arrangement of components in the list speaks to their percentage of the product: the closer to the top, the better. As a rule, all cosmetics first component is water (Aqua / water).
Aqua / water, glycerine, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, paraffinum liquidum / mineral oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil / apricot kernel oil, butyrospermum parkil butter / shea butter, dimethicone, stearic acid, palmitic acid, peg-100 stearate, cera alba / beeswax, glyceryl stearate, stearyle alcohole, silica, rosa canina fruit oil, zingiber officinale extract / ginger root extract, retinyl palmitate, tocopherol, lauroyl lysine, hydroxypropil tetrahydropyrantriol, capryloyl salicylic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ammonium polyakryldimethyltauramide / ammonium, polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, C13-14 isoparaffin, dimethiconol, disodium edta, laureth-7, octyldodecanol, peg-20 stearate, polyacrylamide, polycaprolactone, polymethyl methacrylate, polyurethane-2, dimethyl mea, glycine soja oil / soybean oil, lecithin, myristic acid, propylene glycol, t-butyl alcohole, chlorphenesin, imidazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, propylparaben, parfum / fragrance, coumarin, linanool.
So, we looked at the composition and realized that nothing we do not understand. Let us remember that this cream. It is a mixture of water, fat and additives. The largest percentage in a cream always makes water (aqua / water), which is why it is listed first. After that, the list of components, the main agents.
Glycerol (glycerine) – used in all the creams, but in this case is in the first place. Moisturizes and soothes the skin. Its peculiarity is that it absorbs water from the air and causes swelling of the upper layers of skin.
After the humidifier in this cream contains a lot of skin softener.
Most of the most popular here synthetic emollients, which can be found at the end of «-siloxane». This Tsiklopentaksiloksan, Tsiklogeksasiloksan (Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane), which are well soothe the skin.
Next comes a set of natural emollients – mineral oil, apricot kernel oil, shea butter (paraffinum liquidum / mineral oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil / apricot kernel oil, butyrospermum parkil butter / shea butter). It is not necessary to know the translation of these difficult names. Enough to understand that the word «Oil» and «Butter» translated as “oil” and then everything becomes clear. Further, there are a couple of popular natural emollients, but in smaller proportions: beeswax (cera alba or beeswax), which positively affects the functioning of the fatty skin and dimethiconol (dimetikonol).
As elsewhere, there is dimethicone (dimethicone), which is needed to improve consumer product qualities, but also protects the skin from external influences and moisture loss. Can cause allergic reaction.
Following are two acids (in the phrase is the word «acid») – stearic acid and palm acid (stearic acid, palmitic acid), derived from plant oils. It is believed that they are good for dry and chapped skin, good fabric softeners. The first of these is contained in almost all the emulsions and cream foundations.
After the acid is an ingredient peg-100 stearate. This is a word with different numbers (from 2 to 6000) is on each package of cream, shampoo and other cosmetics. This emulsifiers, which allow you to mix oil with water. A number spoke of their thickening capabilities. In this case, it is medium-high, and even on the list and then meet peg-20 stearate, from which it can be concluded that the cream is very thick. Approximately the same proportions added 2 more emulsifier Glyceryl Stearate and Stearyl alcohol (glyceryl stearate, stearyl alcohol), and also added a little myristic acid (myristic acid).
Next on the list above ingredients are active additives and are often found in many creams:
silicon dioxide (silica) – necessary for the formation of the skin;
ginger rhizome (zingiber officinale extract / ginger root extract) – a biologically active and anti-inflammatory drug;
vitamin A (retinyl palmitate), vitamin E (tocopherol) – about properties, see above;
laureth-7, laurillizin (lauroyl lysine), which activate the metabolic processes;
Capri salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), which increases the activity of other ingredients;
common emollients and antioxidant litsitin (lecithin);
disodium EDTA (disodium edta) – softens water in the cream;
propylene glycol (propylene glycol), which can be found in almost all creams, as has the ability to retain moisture within the skin.
In addition, a UV filter (it can be identified by the words «methoxycinnamate») – ethyihexyl methoxycinnamate.
At the end of the list are traditional agents that determine the consumer characteristics of the cream: stabilizers: ammonium polyakryldimethyltauramide / ammonium, polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, thickeners: C13-14 isoparaffin and PAM (polyacrylamide), viscosity regulators (polycaprolactone, polymethyl methacrylat, polyurethane-2, the solvent is t-butyl alcohole), preservatives (chlorphenesin, imidazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, propylparaben), perfumes (parfum / fragrance, coumarin, linalool).
The main anti-aging active ingredient here is a newly emerged hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, a market whose name is Pro-Xylan (Pro-Xylane). Promotes active cell regeneration, moisturize the dermis and epidermis. Contained in creams brands such as Garnier, L’oreal, Vichy.
In addition, there is an ingredient that promotes densification of aged skin and its lifting. This Dimethyl MEA (dimethyl mea). The Council draws attention to the presence of this ingredient in age creams.
As a result, we can say that the cream is saturated with moisturizers and softening agents added to anti-aging agents, but for sensitive and allergic skin may not be appropriate because of the large number of allergenic ingredients (including fragrances, certain emollients), etc.
It remains to add that while writing this article, I bought myself two creams. Unfortunately, I neglected the advice that you must first try the cream on the skin reaction and just bought an expensive cream for combination skin well-known international firms. But after I try it at home, I realized that it irritates my skin.
Next cream that I bought was a product of the domestic manufacturer in about the same price range (from 150 to 200 rubles). But he was already labeled as a cream for combination and sensitive skin. And in its composition contains appropriate my skin ingredients. The main moisturizing agents in it are pentylene glicole and caprylic / capric triglyceride, and as a mitigating used squalane and cyclopentasiloxane. In addition, in a cream has UV filters (in my cream is a substance with the end of «-methoxycinnamate»). The cream came to me much better.
I must say that even experts and tips before buying a used probes creams, make it not so easy because in stores they are often not provided. Therefore, the choice I tried to be guided by the information that is shared with readers. But be that as it may be, the most important condition in the choice of the cream – it’s your personal feeling.